Sunday, July 02, 2006


Not too long ago, Slashfood had a series on sushi. I'm a big fan of sushi and sashimi, but I always just get a combination plate rather than pick out specific roles. But when we returned to our favorite sushi place, Natori, I knew it was time to try something new.

We began with an order of Broiled Alligator in Ginger Sauce. Natori is actually known as being one of the few restaurants in New York to serve Alligator, the one animal I'm terrified of. Not only does it taste delicious, especially in the Ginger Sauce, but it's also extremely satisfying to know that this is one reptile that won't eat me. Aren't I terrible?

I ordered two sushi rolls and one kind of sashimi. What I love about Natori, rather than other sushi restaurants, is that when you order sashimi, rather than one small piece of fish, you are presented with a small pile of three or four. The sashimi I ordered was Hirame, a light white fish that is usually flounder but, at Natori, was fluke. It was beautifully seasoned and very mild--best to eat it all first! I then moved on to a special, Fatty Tuna and Scallion Roll. Fatty Tuna, or Toro, is one of my favorite kinds of sushi and this roll was the best. The Tuna is rich and sweet and the scallions are spicy, providing a perfect counterpoint. My final roll was one I'd never had before--a Salmon Skin roll. A little too salty for my tastes, I did enjoy how crunchy it was. All in all, it was a well-rounded selection.

The Boy is much more accustomed to ordering sushi this way, so he had no trouble picking his dishes. One of his perennial favorites is a Spicy Tuna roll and this one did not disappoint, being extremely spicy, but still with that nice, rich tuna. Like me, he had a Fatty Tuna and Scallion roll. And, finally, an Unagi, or, Eel, roll. The best Eel roll he's ever had, it's served almost warm, with a heavy smoky flavor that still doesn't overpower the eel. It's delectably moist, but still crunchy on the outside. I, who had never had eel before, completely agreed.

58 Saint Marks Place
New York, NY 10003

and and and

Broccoli Raab

Back in March, the hunt was on for Broccoli Raab recipes and I happily complied by posting a recipe for Turkey soup with Broccoli Raab. As I believe I mentioned then, Broccoli Raab is a spicy, leafy green--very healthy and delicious. However, it can often be too tart for many people, so it's rather ignored. However, last Friday night, cooking side by side with Mom, preparing a Shabbat dinner meal, I developed a way to cook Broccoli Raab where it wound up almost sweet.

I wasn't planning on making Broccoli Raab at all Friday night. I was hoping for some nice Savoy Cabbage to braise, but the Broccoli Raab looked so beautiful at the Greenmarket, and Cabbage really isn't in season yet, so I just made a quick switch in my plans and everything came out wonderfully. We served it with a rich Salmon and the last Asparagus of the season.

Broccoli Raab

2 slices Turkey Bacon, chopped
2 bunches Broccoli Raab, chopped
2 tablespoons Butter
3/4 cup Chardonnay
leaves from 4 Oregano stems, chopped
Salt and Pepper, to taste
1/4 teaspoon Mustard Powder

Cook Turkey Bacon in a skillet until browned. Add Broccoli Raab, Butter and Chardonnay. Cover skillet and braise until Broccoli Raab is very soft and has adopted some of the wine's sweetness, about 8 minutes. Remove from heat and season with Oregano, Salt, Pepper and Mustard Powder. Serve warm.

and and and and and